The famous mineral-rich medicinal baths of Budapest mostly lie on the Buda side of the city along the Danube River in the shadow of the Buda Hills. The waters come from two major systems of thermal springs.
Finding two of the historic Turkish baths was an interesting challenge. It was the distinctive Turkish dome rising slightly above the rooftop of a picturesque old building that helped me find the Kiraly Baths. The discovery of several domes of various sizes buried among old trees behind a building revealed the location of the Ruhas Baths to me. 
I found the 500 year old Turkish hamams with their distinctive octagonal pools intriguing. While soaking under the steamy domes with their tiny skylights, it felt like the Turks had just left.
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The first baths in Budapest date from the Roman era. The Turkish baths were constructed during the Ottoman Turkish occupation in the 16th century. Public baths became the mainstream of Buda life in the 18th century. 
At the turn of the 20th century there was another wave of bathhouse construction. Grand, classical revival buildings were built around baths and swimming pools during this time. 
This is when the monumental, ornate baths of Gellert and Szechenyi were constructed. Bathhouses in Budapest have always served as a place for communal gathering and information exchange. This was especially true during the repressive years of communism in the 1950’s.
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The two largest spas in Budapest, Gellert and Szechenyi, had outdoor pools which were open this time of the year. 
Watching the sheer number of people walking around outside in their bathing suits between dips in the pool made me shiver, given the outside temperature was around 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
While soaking in the thermal waters, the sound of rushing water which surrounded me was hypnotic. 
It came from the pipes which fed the pools, the small waterfalls that cascaded into the pools, and the taps and basins along the walls.
Maneuvering throughout the various thermal baths was not without its challenges. One challenge was getting a space under the waterfalls or fountains in each pool in order to enjoy the refreshing waters plunging over my body at different temperatures. Understandably, these were favorite place for bathers to congregate. I learned to perch myself nearby and make a quick move when someone left the spot I wanted.
Getting lost in the labyrinth of the pools, saunas, steam chambers, showers, toilets, changing rooms, lockers, and restaurants or cafes, was part of the experience, especially in the larger spas. 
Fortunately an English-speaking, friendly attendant always seemed to appear at the opportune moment, just when I was feeling lost and frustrated.
In the un-restored Kiraly Baths, everything was written in Russian, German, and Hungarian (no English). The other baths I visited had everything written in Hungarian and English. It appears the Russian legacy hasn’t been completely eliminated from Budapest yet!
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My experience with the thermal baths of Budapest brought to mind a very different experience I had in the hammams of Morocco several years ago. The Ottoman-Turks never reached there. The interesting public baths of Morocco are of Arab origin and design, hence their unique difference with the Turkish baths of Budapest.
The main difference between a traditional Morocco hammam and a Turkish bath is that Morocco hammams focus on steam rather than water.
You can read my blog about my adventure in the world of Morocco’s hammams on the following link: It’s a Man’s World, Except in a Hammam in Morocco
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I spent a lovely 
Just before the end of our walk where the forest suddenly gave way to the endless grass-covered rolling hills of Buda, we came upon 
Tamas and Emese invited me to join them on an afternoon excursion to visit Tamas’ Mother in 
Martonvasari is a popular tourist destination for Hungarians because of the Brunszvik Palace, built in 1785, where Beethoven often stayed and composed music. Every summer concerts in his honor are held on the castle grounds on the island in the middle of the lake.
The country’s politics have changed drastically since the Soviet era, but the spirit of Servas in Hungary, as I experienced it, has not changed. It’s members are still welcoming international Servas travelers with open arms and open hearts – but now without fear.
The multicultural gastronomic scene in the Jewish Quarter fits well into my budget of $30US per day for food and accommodations.
Occasionally I visit the nearby historic, covered market to dine with the locals for breakfast or lunch, that is if the aroma of fresh baked goods coming out of the bakeries on the way don’t distract me from this goal. 
It turned out to be a day of eating Turkish kebabs and Hungarian goulash soup for me. 
We had been introduced by email through a mutual friend in my hometown of Newport, Rhode Island. 
One popular program they offer the community is a panel of Hungarian Jews who each tell their story. They bring in a Rabbi and a converted Jew, among others. Each Jew has a special story to tell, especially in this part of the world, Emese commented. 
In her case, she found out recently that she is of Jewish heritage, much to her surprise. Jews have had to adapt over the centuries to survive, which is why so many converted to Christianity, she explained. 
I have made the charming old Jewish Quarter in Pest my home during my two-week stay in Budapest.
It is truly a place of resilience and vitality, given its recent dark history. The streets around the lovely Mavrick Hostel where I am staying in this fast-gentrifying district is dotted with cafes, international restaurants, bakeries, old synagogues, and “ruin bars” (abandoned buildings turned into pop-up bars). 
This part of the old Jewish Quarter which is full of narrow, winding streets, is where I am staying. 
Budapest’s Jewry. 
The beautiful Orthodox Synagogue with its opulent interior was built 
It was built in 1859 for Nealog Jews, a Hungarian branch of Judaism that wanted to modernize the religion with the intention of integrating into Hungarian society. It is the largest synagogue in Europe. 
I have always found them very informative, and at times entertaining, as they were here.
I have safely arrived in Budapest, Hungary. It is deep in the winter of 2019 now. Days are cold, but clear. I spend my time bundled up in layers while exploring this dynamic, beautiful city.
My first view of the dramatic citadel of Mdina perched high on a hill in the middle of Malta Island took my breath away. At that moment I knew that I had to experience the wonder of the place by day and night, which could only be accomplished by staying overnight there, which I did. 
Little did I know at the time about some of the history that lurked behind its fortified walls for me to discover – such as the old Jewish Silk Road where the market is said to have taken place before the Inquisition, and the medieval museum houses of wealthy merchants filled with artifacts.
often getting lost along the way. Getting lost was a blessing because that is how I found the archaeological museum which was tucked away on a tiny street behind an imposing door. Once inside the museum I passed through inner passageways and hidden rooms while delving into the history of Mdina up to the time of the Phoenicians. 
St. Paul’s Catacombs, underground Roman cemeteries that were in use up to the 7
I prowled through interconnected passages and tombs and found drawings of (Jewish) menorahs etched into stone.
groups of men of all ages gathered. Some men stood and chatted; others rested on benches watching the world (of tourists) go by. On another side of the square an outdoor cafe was often packed with well-healed people taking in a bit of sun on a clear, seasonally- cool day. 
It was full of local people. A double rainbow hovered over a lovely setting around an old stone church just outside its windows. 
I lingered longer than normal, soaking in the local atmosphere and the view. The food was exceptional; the price was right. I returned for more the following day. 
Three Cities is used to describe Malta’s three historical, fortified cities of Birgu (Virtiosia), Senglea and Cospicua. Birgu has existed since the Middle Ages. 
A friendly boat man aboard a 
sleek, traditional Maltese water taxi, called a “dghajsa”, was always quick to offer me a ride across the harbor. During these rides to and from the Three Cities across one of Europe’s grandest harbors, I often felt like I was traversing the Grand Canal in Venice on a gondola (see photo of the dghajsa) for the mere price of 5 Euros. 
Fort St. Angelo, in Birgu, with its commanding position at the entrance to Grand Harbour, has a fascinating air raid shelter which was used during WWII to house and protect hundreds of people. Strategically placed directional arrows kept me from getting lost in the underground labyrinth. I passed through long tunnels of stone 
Accommodations for people on bunks with ten to a room made the international hostels I stay in when traveling look like palaces.
Its purpose was to quell the dissidents of modern ‘heretical’ teachings. 
The opulent residence 
of the inquisitor and the tribunal court upstairs were in stark contrast to the tiny, cold basement cells where subjects under investigation were imprisoned. The Inquisitor’s Palace left me with a shiver and a heavy heart as I imagined what went on behind those walls over the centuries. 
I finished the day with a